Most of my frocks or dresses were made by my Grandmother, Elizabeth Allen (Saunders). During my early childhood, I remember sitting next to my grandmother on her bed while she was diligently stitching something wonderful.
I was trying to create a hand stiched purse for myself. Grandmother Elizabeth, observant of what I was trying to do, took charge and hand stitch the remaining fabrics together, until she finished my purse. I was delighted. There is something special about a moment like that. To be fortunate enough to sit next to my grandmother, and observe her craft while making a creation of my own.
Grandmother Elizabeth was born in 1911 in New York City to Mary Ester Saunders (Shinault) and Charles Saunders. Grandmother Elizabeth had two sisters, Dorothy and Alma and a brother Billy. Her husband Carlito Benjamin Allen was often not present in the home. According to the 1940 census, Grandmother Elizabeth, a seamstress, age 29, b.1911 is listed as a lodger at 139th Street, in New York City, N.Y. with her 2nd grader son, Reginald Winston Allen age 9. Grandmother Elizabeth’s sister, Alma b.1915, in North Carolina, age 25, was residing as a lodger in the same building with her two year old son Bruce, b.1938.
My grandmother attended the Pratt Institute, 200 Willoughby Ave, in New York. She has been credited as the first person in our family at the time to graduate from College. Her yearning was to become a Dress Designer. Oftentimes one would find her tatting in her spare time. For those who are not familiar with tatting it is a craft, a technique that uses heavy thread to construct a series of knots and loops using a hand held shuttle to create the lace edging on a collar for example but, for the purpose of my grandmother, she did it to decorate the border of her handkerchiefs. Amazing work, which takes hours to complete, with a high learning curve to master.
Part of our family lore is a story my Dad had told me numerous times about his mother. Not only did I hear this story from Dad, but from many other relatives as well, including Cousin(s) Jean, Simone, Bruce, Ken, my Sister Charisse and Brother Scott. They all tell it like this…
Grandmother Elizabeth designed a collection of beautiful antebellum dresses for several dolls. She relinquished the dolls to a woman. The woman may have promised her a financial gain for the exquisitely dressed dolls. The transaction had potential to transition into a possible employment opportunity, considering the economic climate of the times in the 1930’s. My grandmother never heard from the woman who took the dresses and the dolls. Grandmother Elizabeth was absolutely astonished when she saw replicas of her dress design featured in the Epic Motion Picture Movie, “Gone with the Wind.” Believe me, this story has been told countless times of how my grandmother was “ripped off,” of her dress designs without compensation or acknowledgement of her work. She was tormented by this infringement, compounded by other unfair circumstances, which caused her to shift in mental status and become ill over time. Dad took me to visit his Mother in a Nursing Home in New York. Despite she had endured a stroke on her right side, she was still able to create things using her hands.
What does the law have to say about Fashion Designs and Copyright Protection?
The copyright Acts defines “useful article” an article having intrinsic utilitarian function that is not mearly to portray the appearance of the article or to convey information. An article that is normally part of a useful article is considered a useful article.17 U.S.C 101 U.S. The designer has no say concerning the useful and further disposition of the article that has registered copyright once the designer or manufacturer has released that article into general commerce by selling it or giving it away.
Second court of appeals (1991 and 1995) relating to clothing and the fact that clothing is not copyrightable. In essence, my grandmother’s dress design had a functional purpose for the dolls. It served to keep the doll decent in appearance. Had Grandmother Elizabeth established a mutual written agreement with the woman who took her dolls and her designs, I’m certain she would have had a more favorable resolve.
My journey continues…as I search for my Shinault, Gamble, Saunders, Allen, Garcia, Strother Heritage on my Paternal side, and the Williams, and Jacoways on my Maternal side. Stay tuned. There is more to come from my fabulous journey of family relations and discovery.
About Andrea.
A native New Yorker and resident of Chicago. A member of the Black Heritage Committee of NEIU. Family and Community oriented, loves to travel and experience other cultures.
Fashion design and the law the rule book for independent designers and the marketers behind them July 30,2012 Aslerlaw.wordpress.com
Shinault Family Genealogy 
Thanks, Andrea, for sharing this story of your grandmother’s skill. The pictures of tatting were special. Very sad to think of your grandmother’s talents being exploited as they were.
Thank you. I know my grandmother never resolved her plight but I at least shared her feeling on the matter and gave her a voice.
Being a “black doll collector” and quilter, I feel I can relate very well with this post. Additionally, one of my daughters attended Parsons in New York and graduated from Bauder Fashion College in Atlanta, Ga.(she does not officially practice her craft, however). How dare someone “steal” from someone so trusting. I did enjoy reading your post and look forward to reading more.
So nice you quilt. I am glad my grandmother’s story is relatable. Do you use your quilts, or display them like works of art?
I know..it is easy to give something important away with second thought and not have a written agreement. Other wise clothes as not copyrightable. Since we are creative people there is a non for profit organization in Chicago that help individuals such as my grandmother. It is called Lawyers for the Creative Arts.
Great post. I also had a grandmother and great-grandmother who were seamstresses. I don’t see clothes, but I do make quilts. With each stitch I make, I know they are still with me.
Quilts are so special. I have one my Aunt Dot made, stiched completely by hand. I used it on Amtrak once and thought it could get lost. It is not big enough to cover my bed, yet too big to display on the wall like a work of art. What you do is special…no factory can create what you do out of love.
My grandmother knew how to tat also but by the time I was old enough to be interested, she had terrible arthritis in her hands and couldn’t do it. I can imagine having her dress designs stolen like that was pretty traumatic. It’s too bad it drove her over the edge.
Yes, I can relate to physical limitations..because my grandmother had a stroke which left her paralyzed on one side yet she continued to use her hands to the best of her ability. I was amazed. Thank you for responding. Your words are encouraging. Keep tatting alive or else it will become a thing of the past.
My Aunt told me that her sister faced racism. After graduating, her school did not process her transcripts timeley thus casung her to loose out on a job opportunity. She wanted to take her diploma and throw it out of the window and follow the diploma out of the window. I am so glad she didn’t actually do that, but instead survived with the support of her family while trying to fulfill her yearing to be a dress designer in a climate that wasn’t always receptive.
i love your grandmother Elizabeth’s talent and the the pictures of the tatting. I hope that you will continue the art.
My grand mother and her sisters plus my mother were talented in sewing. I now have my mother’s sewing machine. It is a difficult time for me Since my mom died in June 2013. Now, I have to put her sewing machine to use.
Your grandmother Elizabeth was a very talented woman. It is sad that she didn’t get the recognition for her work while she was alive. You have kept her story alive and now others will know of her work. Excellent post!
Thank you Andrea..I wish I could have been my grandmother’s advocate back then…but she was not a strong bird able to cope with life’s adversities. Plus her husband was not in the home to lend support. Despite all of her frustrations, she needed a break financially, but was taken advantaged of by an unscrupulous person. With all of her tremendous talent, she struggled the most.
Thank you the birthday cheer
Sounds Wonderful. I wonder the stories behind some of those dresses. What a connection! Her story lives on.